Wire-bottom cages are very painful for rabbits. They create sore hocks on the feet (pictured below) that are incredibly painful. They also cause arthritis, which is painful and chronic. Your rabbit should always have a solid surface to stand/walk/sleep on.
Wire bottoms on cages for rabbits cause pressure points on their feet and it can cause sores, infections and in the end possibly death. Even though they have fur on their feet, the wires can cut through and cause problems.
Cage Materials
The floor should be solid like plastic to avoid pressure sores and allow easy cleanup. Wood cages are tough to disinfect and not ideal for your rabbit.
Wire Mesh and Your Bunny
Your bunny's health depends on sturdy galvanized wire mesh. The right gauge and openings are critical for airflow, hygiene, and the safety of your bunny's paws, and more. To begin, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of your bunny.
Cardboard, hay, and paper make excellent flooring for a cage or hutch. You probably already have some in your home right now. Wood bedding, marmoleum, and fleece work well, too.
Multi-level rabbit cages provide rabbits with a bit of variety and a good view, but it's not required.
It's a common question from new rabbit caretakers, "do I need bedding for my rabbit?" The answer is no! Even though the packaging often has a rabbit on it, bedding is not necessary for rabbits and is much more of a hindrance than a help.
They can squeeze through surprisingly small spaces. They will also burrow and dig underneath fences and hedges, so consider sinking wire mesh into the ground if your rabbit is going to spend a lot of time in your garden. Rabbits can bite through fine gauge chicken wire, so use heavy duty mesh instead.
Wire mesh is a popular flooring material, but it can be very hard on bunny feet. Make sure to cover large sections of wire flooring with cardboard, plywood, or another solid, rabbit-safe material. Hay can also help.
The hutch should be raised off the ground on legs to repel predators and prevent the base becoming sodden wet. The roof should be sloping to allow rain run off and covered with roofing felt to keep the hutch watertight.
Linoleum/Tile
Linoleum and tile are common choices for house rabbits. They can be fixed to the ground, making them perfect for exercise pens and floor level cages. They can also be placed in cage pans.
Rabbits will chew pretty much anything "chewable" which includes wood, wires, and the like. If you give them lots of non-wire stuff to chew, like apple tree branches, then it does reduce the chance they'll go after your wires, but it doesn't stop it in my experience (we had two rabbits once).
The best way to stop your cords being chewed and to protect your rabbit from the risk of electrocution is to thoroughly rabbit-proof them. Use cord covers, invest in plastic tubing that goes over the cords, and – even better – move the cords completely out of reach of a curious bunny.
Rabbits like to play and need plenty of exercise to stay healthy and happy. Ideally you want to provide them with up to 4 hours daily of supervised time out of their cage. Rabbits are subject to depression and poor health if they're not provided with daily interaction and mental stimulation.
To keep your rabbit happy and healthy, let it out of its cage at least once a day, giving it time to roam. Though at least one hour is necessary, aim closer to three or four. As a rule, never keep your rabbit cooped up for 24 hours at a time.
A rabbit enclosure should be at least 3 times the length of the rabbit and approximately two times the width. If it has a ceiling, it should be tall enough that the rabbit can stand up all the way on their hind legs without bumping their head.
Keeping your rabbit inside
Rabbits can live quite happily indoors and they should be provided with secure accommodation where they can feel safe, sleep, use a particular area as a toilet, and be confined to when unsupervised.
Generally speaking - No, keeping a rabbit in a cage is not cruel. But it depends on the cage. In fact, it is usually the opposite. It is cruel to leave our pet rabbit outdoors in an open space, unsupervised and at risk of being injured or attacked by predators.
It's best to let your rabbit out of its cage or enclosure at least twice a day for exercise and socialization. If rabbits are regularly cooped up for more than 12 hours at a time, there is an increased risk that they will develop health problems (such as GI Stasis) or become depressed and lonely.
A 30- to 36-inch-high fence constructed from woven wire with a mesh no larger than 1 inch is recommended for excluding rabbits. The lower end of the wire mesh should be turned outward at a 90-degree angle and buried 6 inches in the ground to discourage rabbits from digging under the fence.
Cage or box trapping is the best way to remove rabbits in cities, parks, and suburban areas. Traps should be 9 x 10 x 24 inches. Some biologists believe that wooden box traps are more effective than cage traps. Place traps where you know rabbits feed or rest.
Objects to play with or throw - such as untreated straw, wicker, sea-grass mats and baskets, balls and plastic flower pots. Solid plastic baby toys such as 'key rings', rattles, stacking cups and some robust cat and parrot toys can make good rabbit toys.