First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
Retinol increases skin cell production (proliferation). It helps unclog pores. Retinol also exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance.
Retinol is well known for worsening the condition of the skin before improving it. Most people who introduce retinol to their skin, experience severe breakouts, dryness, itchiness, and redness. The immediate side effects of retinol treatment can take the form of a surge in acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and rashes.
So you may be getting those fresh cells to the surface faster and unclogging your pores but at the same time you are undisputedly accelerating the ageing process of your skin. As skin ages its cell production capabilities also reduce – cells are replaced at a slower rate so your skin gets thinner and thinner.
Retinol might not be a fit for those with overly sensitive or hypersensitive skin, those who have food intolerances or high allergic reactions, and young skin, she says. “Caution is necessary when using any vitamin A derivatives and should only be used after advice from your derm or skin care specialist,” Joss says.
Begin in Your Mid-20s or Early 30s
“Your mid-twenties are a great time to start using retinol,” says Ellen Marmur, M.D. “Many patients who have used it for years swear by it.”
Yes. In fact, retinoids work best if you use them daily. Specifically, try to use them at night because light and air deactivate some types. If you experience any side effects — like skin redness or dryness — then it's a good idea to back down to once every 2 or 3 nights.
New York dermatologist, Dendy Engelman, M.D., explains that the skin gradually adjusts to retinol. "Clinically, we've seen that it takes about three weeks for skin cells to adapt to retinoic acid and begin building their tolerance," says Engelman, which is why some degree of irritation is totally normal early on.
Don't use retinol with Vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and glycolic acid, which are other common skincare ingredients. If you want to take advantage of the benefits of these ingredients, make sure you use them in the morning rather than at night when you apply retinol to avoid skin irritation and redness.
There are 3 things you can do to speed this up. It's a great time to consider a hydrating mask to add oomph to your basic routine. And a barrier repair cream might also be helpful, to amplify and expedite repair. Finally, you might even need to use a little 1% hydrocortisone cream for a few days.
"If you're overusing your retinol, or if you're using a retinol that's too strong for you, it can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness, which may have led to retinol's association with skin thinning," says Dr. Icecreamwala. "This will make your skin look older and accentuate wrinkles."
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
A review of retinoids indicates that most individuals see a significant decrease in wrinkles after about three months of use. 3 Over time, retinol help boosts collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles begin to form, so long-term consistency will be worth the results.
The good news is that it is never too late to start incorporating retinol into your skin care routine. People in the 60s and beyond have begun using retinol and still experienced results.
If you've surpassed your 20s and are concerned that you've missed your window for reaping the benefits of retinol, don't worry—it's never too late to start. Dr. Arthur says she's had patients who reported noticeable results after starting retinol in their 60s and 70s.
No matter your age, it's never too late to try retinol products. If you're wondering which other items to add to your skin care routine, check out The Best Skin Care Routine for Ageing Skin!
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
Retinol uglies can leave your face dry, flaky, itchy, and beet red — as if you just got slapped across the face by a harsh gust of freezing wind. It's annoying and can be a zing to self-confidence, but know you're not alone. Retinol uglies are super common (almost expected) in retinol first-timers.
So if you start using retinol every day out of the gate, you can end up with some painful inflammation and a damaged skin barrier, negating any potential positives. One way to avoid that irritation is to start slow, explains Ranella Hirsch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.
12. Can Retinol Damage the Skin? You may have heard that extended retinol use can cause the skin to thin and the skin barrier to degrade as a result of increased cell turnover, but Shah says that's a myth. You don't need to worry about retinol causing permanent damage, Schlessinger says.
Regulations. All-trans retinoic acid (Tretinoin) is banned for use in cosmetics in the EU.
You should always apply retinol at night, after cleansing, and before your nighttime moisturizer. Five minutes is enough to wait for your retinol to sink in before applying moisturizer; you want to layer them, not mix them.