1. Staining over stain is easy and works beautifully if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain on raw wood. This rule applies to oil-based stains, water-based stains, and gel stains. 2.
Can I stain on top of old stain? Yes! In fact, applying stain over stain is a fairly simple process. It works especially well if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain.
It is important to only stain the wood after it has dried completely. Check if the deck is dry enough for staining using a moisture meter. It measures the amount of moisture within the wood itself. If it has rained recently, wait at least 1 to 2 days for the wood to dry before attempting to apply stain.
The wood must be clean, dry and free of contaminants. If you try to apply stain or sealer over damp or dirty wood, then there won't be proper adhesion.
Good news, you can stain wood without sanding the old finish off! But you'll still have to do some prep to make the new gel stain bond properly with the old stain. Start by always cleaning the old finish with a good cleaner and degreaser, like TSP. Be sure to rinse all of that cleaner off before moving on.
Make sure you sand the wood well before applying stain. Any scratches will be enhanced by stain. Sanding will also help open up the pores of the wood so that they can absorb stain better.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a darker coloring, but it adds a step to the process and slows production. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment.
Water-based stains usually take 4 to 6 hours to dry, while oil and gel-based stains can take up to 12 to 24 hours. Stain dries the best in warm, dry areas that get great airflow. Hardwoods like oak and maple usually dry faster from staining than softwoods like pine and fir.
Stains and oils penetrate wood best when it's cool and dry. If it rains within 48 hours of applying a treatment, the water will soak into the wood, and try and displace the stain. This can cause a blotchy, flaky look, rather than a smooth, even, coat.
Using Mild Abrasives (Toothpaste/Baking soda/salt)
Buff out water stains on wood with a mild abrasive. Using a non-gel (plain white) toothpaste, baking soda paste or salt paste (adding a few drops of water to form the pastes), gently rub the mixture into the stain. Be sure to go along the grain of the wood.
Give it a few more days to see if it improves. Another possibility is that the stain was old or came from a bad batch. In either case if the tackiness doesn't go away, wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, let it dry thoroughly, then try again using a fresh can of stain.
Wood Stain Drying Time
Depending on the type of stain you are using, most stains are dry and cured within 24 hours to 48 hours. After that time, it's safe for additional coats or to apply polyurethane or the sealer of your choice.
No, the sticky stains will not dry after some time, which is why it is important to wipe off the excess wood stain. If you don't, your work will end up sticky because the stain did not dry properly. You will have to use mineral spirits, more stain, or sandpaper to fix the mess.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
Applying a second coat of stain to change the color is something you might try once, but the chances of success are not very good. A second coat of stain can cause other issues like peeling of the top coat(s).
Uneven Stain Coloring - Too Light
If you find that some areas of the wood stain are lighter than the target color you have in your head, you can apply additional stain to those areas. Use a piece of cloth or rag to apply another coat of the same stain to the wood in the area that is too light.
No matter the type of wood, we always recommend waiting 24-48 hours after rainfall or cleaning to make sure the structure is dry prior to staining.
You can't stain a wet deck, and you also shouldn't stain your deck just before it rains, so you will need to find a good window of time when your deck is dry and your new stain will have enough time to set.
You can stain it when visibly damp, just not soaking wet with puddles. We just used the Restore-A-Deck stripper and brightener on our three-year old deck. (We applied the Restore-A-Deck cleaner, brightener, and stain six-months after the deck was installed.)
Once you have washed the item, check it to ensure the stain is completely removed, since drying can actually set the stain. If the stain is still there, you may need to use this same method again, or you may want to move on to another solution for the removal of set stains.
Continue to spray and dab the spots until they disappear. Aim a fan or hair dryer at the damp spot to speed up the drying process. Keep the fan blowing on the area until it is completely dry to prevent mold or mildew growth.
In the wet on wet method, the first application of stain is applied to an area. Then before the first coat dries or cures, a second coat is applied over the top. This method ensures that the first coat, being still wet, has not sealed the boards from accepting more stain.
If you apply a second, unnecessary coat of stain to wood that is already adequately covered, you risk creating a tacky surface that is prone to early peeling because the second coat is not penetrating the wood surface, but simply laying on top of the first coat of stain.
On average, wood stain takes about 24 to 72 hours to fully dry and cure, though you can typically add a second coat after about four hours.
Stains lighten as they dry, then return to their damp color when a finish is applied. So the quick method of seeing the color you'll get with the finish applied is to look at the stain while it is still damp. If you're using a satin or flat finish, however, you need to factor in the impact of the flatting agent.