Hot take: You don't really need a retinol eye cream. If you're using retinol or derm-grade retinoids on your face, you're already covered by your current skincare routine. But it can be a good idea, in some cases, to use a retinol eye cream to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes.
While dermatologists say it's safe to use retinol as an under-eye cream, the group weighed in with the recommendations they like to use on the sensitive area.
What should you do to avoid irritation? Because retinol is a strong ingredient, using it under your eyes has the potential to cause irritation. The under eye area is one of the most delicate areas on your skin, so it's best to proceed with caution when using the ingredient.
While there's no right or wrong age to begin using retinol, most dermatologists recommend fitting it into your skin care routine during your 20s. The reason? "The production of collagen fibers starts to decline in our 20s," explains Dr. Allison Arthur, MD, FAAD, at Sand Lake Dermatology Center.
No matter your age, it's never too late to try retinol products. If you're wondering which other items to add to your skin care routine, check out The Best Skin Care Routine for Ageing Skin!
“This will make your skin look older and accentuate wrinkles” — which is probably not what you're going for when you start using the stuff. And there's no question that retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Bare Skin Care - Is it possible for a retinol eye cream to make my under-eye wrinkles worse? First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
For patients with sensitive skin, she suggests applying Vaseline to the eye area to protect the skin from irritation before using retinol or retinoids on the rest of the face. That said, if you find you're just not meeting your skin goals, it can be helpful to use a separate serum for the eye area.
Retinol can be a skin irritant
Dermatitis, erythema (redness), scaling/dryness, peeling, burning or stinging, and irritation of the skin are common adverse reactions reported with retinol use, and, in some cases, the reactions are so bad, that even at low concentrations it cannot be used by certain people.
While vitamin C is most notable for helping to brighten and improve hyperpigmentation, retinol is typically considered best-in-class for wrinkles and fine lines. And if you really want to give your skin a one-two punch to get noticeably healthier, you can certainly try incorporating both into your routine.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out the skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
According to the Cleveland Clinic, if your retinol is irritating your skin, you should apply a thin layer of moisturizer before applying it to give your skin a little barrier. If your retinol is not irritating your skin, then depending on the formula, you can apply it before your moisturizer.
"If you're overusing your retinol, or if you're using a retinol that's too strong for you, it can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness, which may have led to retinol's association with skin thinning," says Dr. Icecreamwala. "This will make your skin look older and accentuate wrinkles."
So if you start using retinol every day out of the gate, you can end up with some painful inflammation and a damaged skin barrier, negating any potential positives. One way to avoid that irritation is to start slow, explains Ranella Hirsch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.
Topical retinol is generally safe for long-term use without any detrimental health risks.
Benefits of Using Retinol Under Eyes
The superstar ingredient helps to build up collagen and soften fine lines, among other benefits for the eye area (and everywhere else you use retinol), according to Dr.
The reality is, retinoids can actually improve skin texture and thickness — particularly in that thin skin around the eyes. “Retinols work topically by interacting at the superficial layers of our skin to increase cellular proliferation and turnover 'revealing' new skin,” says Dr. Shamban.
Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids.
If you're wondering whether you can put retinol under your eyes, the answer is yes! While the skin under your eyes is delicate and requires extra attention, using the correct retinol-infused eye care products under your eyes is a great way to tackle eye bags, wrinkles and dark circles.
Retinol can penetrate deep into your skin's layers to activate collagen and elastin, which give your skin structure and support to prevent wrinkles. You can apply products that contain retinoids at home directly onto your skin as you would a lotion or a moisturizer.
Retinol supports the skin's natural renewal process, helping to improve the appearance of dark circles and puffy under eyes.
The good news is that it is never too late to start incorporating retinol into your skin care routine.
Begin in Your Mid-20s or Early 30s
“Your mid-twenties are a great time to start using retinol,” says Ellen Marmur, M.D. “Many patients who have used it for years swear by it.”
Dr. Shainhouse lengthens the list by pointing out how retinol can cause “scalp redness, irritation, itch, burning, stinging, peeling, sensitivity.” She notes it can even lead to scalp sunburns and may dry “out hair strands or fade the hair color.”
Retinol (leave to absorb for 10-20 minutes)
Retinol is also an ingredient that should be left to absorb sufficiently into the skin before following up with another product. “It is important to leave a 10-20 minute wait time before applying the next product.