Step 2: Wait a few minutes until your skin is completely dry. This is important, because if your skin is at all damp, the retinol will be able to absorb more deeply into your skin and might cause irritation. We want to apply moisturizers and serums to slightly damp skin, but never retinol.
Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids.
To apply a serum with retinol correctly, smooth it onto clean skin after you cleanse and before your moisturizer. Your serum will have a thinner consistency than your moisturizer, which is what determines the application order.
For prescription retinols, you'll typically apply this step onto dry skin before your moisturizer—but always check with your dermatologist. You may be advised to use it after a moisturizer, which buffers the retinol and lessens risk of irritation.
Skin experts always advocate applying actives on damp skin for better absorption. However the same rule does not apply to retinol. While you must ensure that you wash your face before application, make sure the skin is dry first. “On damp skin, the retinol will get absorbed more deeply and in turn cause irritation.
First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
"Studies have shown that layering topical retinoids over moisturizers minimizes skin irritation without interfering with how well they work in the skin," says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Importantly, retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight so be sure to use sunscreen and avoid the sun as much as you can while you use retinol products.
"It is best to avoid other drying agents when using retinoids such as toners, astringents, and medicated cleansers. These products cause further irritation," mentioned Dr. Lipner. Instead, consider piling on rich, creamy moisturizers to counteract any dryness that may occur.
Even if you go “low and slow,” retinol can be drying, especially as your skin gets used to it. “Moisturize on top of the retinol to help with the dryness, especially around the mouth, which is where many patients experience the most significant irritation and dryness,” says Dr. Campbell.
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
Retinol can penetrate deep into your skin's layers to activate collagen and elastin, which give your skin structure and support to prevent wrinkles. You can apply products that contain retinoids at home directly onto your skin as you would a lotion or a moisturizer.
You should always apply retinol at night, after cleansing, and before your nighttime moisturizer. Five minutes is enough to wait for your retinol to sink in before applying moisturizer; you want to layer them, not mix them.
Retinol should be applied to dry skin at night-time: Retinols should always be applied to dry skin as part of your night-time routine. This should always be the first product you apply after cleansing and toning.
Apply retinol in a thin layer to your entire face (be careful not to get it in your mouth, nose and eyes). You should use a dose that's about the size of a pea. For the first couple weeks of treatment, apply retinol only every other day. Finish with a facial moisturizer that won't clog your pores (non-comedogenic).
Dampening your skin before you apply your skin care prepares it to absorb whatever product you follow with. This is because damp skin is easier to penetrate than dry skin. (And when I say damp, I do mean damp. Think: just-cleansed or freshly-misted skin, not sopping wet.)
Within the first few weeks of retinoid use, one will notice that their skin may appear dry and irritated. This is a result of the increased skin cell turnover rate and your skin adjusting to the retinoid. Though you may be concerned about dry, red, and flakey skin, it is all part of the retinoid process.
You should always apply retinol at night, after cleansing, and before your nighttime moisturizer. Five minutes is enough to wait for your retinol to sink in before applying moisturizer; you want to layer them, not mix them.
Use Retinol Only at Night and Wear SPF Every Day
"Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays and sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product," explains Bowe, who instructs patients to only use retinoids at night and be diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out the skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
If you're a prescription-strength user, use retinol as the first layer on your skin after washing your face with a cleansing cream and before applying your anti-aging moisturizer. Otherwise, follow the instructions on your over-the-counter formula.
You'll likely want to use retinol once or twice per week initially and work up to using it more than that. The reason: Retinol can initially be drying, especially if you have sensitive skin, so it's a good idea to give your skin some time to adjust to the change in your routine.