Your bra's underwire should sit flat against your chest and around the contour of your breast without digging in or gaping. No part of your breast tissue should sit under or between the wire compartments. The underwire is a vital component of your bra's ability to lift and support, particularly for fuller cup sized.
The Underwire – If your bra has an underwire it's important to ensure it sits in the right place. The underwire should sit underneath the breast and encase all of it. If the underwire is resting on top of the breast tissue then you are wearing the wrong size.
A well-fitted bra's underwire should follow your breast root (left). A cup that's too big can sit too high up under the armpit and dig in uncomfortably (right). But what if your bra fits perfectly in terms of size, and you still find underwired bras painful? It may be down to the brand or style of the bra.
But how should the underwire really fit? The underwire should surround the whole under part of the breast and never press against the breast tissue at the side or in the middle. You should be able to lift your arms up without the underwire gliding up. If it does, the circumference of your bra is too big.
The underwire should lay flat against your body. If the underwire is poking into your breasts, the cup size is too small. If the underwire is poking into your armpits, the cup size is too big or you're wearing the wrong style. The general rule of thumb: The underwire should never touch your breasts.
If the back rides up or the breast tissue falls under the wire in the front throughout the day, it is too loose. To check if your band is too loose, lift your arms above your head. If the band moves up your sides or back, or if your breast tissue starts to come out from below the underwires or band, it's too big.
Underwired bras are useful but you should not wear them daily. This could be problematic to you. Going braless when you can is extremely good for your breasts as they are set loose. You can always consult a specialist if you face any problem with your bras that escalate to your breasts.
A correctly fitting bra with underwires should never be uncomfortable and if anything the wires in your bra should make your bra feel more secure and give your breasts the added support and lift they need.
If the band size is too tight then the underwires are placed under pressure and may poke out the front overtime. Alternatively if the band is too large and moving around the body, this friction wears down the casing or underwire channelling and this can create a hole for the wire to pop out.
If the bra does not sit flat on the chest then it means the bra could be too small in the cups. If your bra cup size is too small, then it is impossible for the underwire to lie flat against your chest. Instead, the wire sits on top of your breast tissue and the centre panel will not lie flat against your chest wall.
Your bra is painful under the arms
If it pokes into your underarm, the underwire is too big or you're wearing the wrong style. If the underwire digs into your breasts, it's too small and you should go up a cup size. The underwire should never touch your breasts, because breast tissue is soft and sensitive.
A bra that fits is comfortable and supportive. There should be no gaps in the cups, no digging in of the band, and the straps should not fall off or be too tight.
An obvious sign that the cups are too small is if the underwire presses in at the sides of the breasts or if you have red marks on your breasts when you take your bra off in the evening. The underwire should enclose and cradle the breasts; it shouldn't pinch anywhere. If it does, you need to go up a cup size.
If your bra's center panel is not resting on your sternum, this could be a sign that your cup size is too small. If the underwires are pointing outward and away from your body, this too is a sign that your cup size could be too small. The band of the bra should be parallel to the floor.
Red marks from your bra are quite normal when you have just bought a new bra. If your bra fits properly it should be quite snug and supportive so of course your body needs time to adjust. For the first few wears you may notice some markings from the band or under the cup but it's nothing to worry about.
When the underwires pop out of the underwired bra it is often a sign that the bra band size is not correct. If the band size is too tight then the underwires are placed under pressure and may poke out the front overtime.
Incorrect Size or Fit
Spillage from a bra that's too small or gaps from a bra that's too big are the likely culprits when it comes to unflattering lines or creases. If you think you may have the wrong bra size measurements, check out our blog on how to measure your bra size.
If your band size is too small, both the underwire and the band will dig into your skin, which is painful and uncomfortable. The solution is simple: Go up a band size. How do you know you've found the right size? Make sure the center gore between the two cups is flat against your sternum.
One of the major benefits of underwired bras is support, especially if you have a larger chest. With the support of a wire, you can experience less back pain or strain that you might normally feel throughout the day. Additionally, underwired bras provide better lift, separation, and shape of your breasts.
There is no credible research showing a link between wearing, or not wearing, a bra and developing breast cancer. It has been claimed that underwire bras cause breast cancer by obstructing the lymph flow, however, there is no scientific evidence to support this theory.
Most doctors recommend that girls wait until they are at least 16 years old before wearing underwire bras. However, it's important to note that every girl's development is different, and some may need to wear underwire bras sooner than others.
There's nothing wrong with wearing a bra while you sleep if that's what you're comfortable with. Sleeping in a bra will not make a girl's breasts perkier or prevent them from getting saggy. And it will not stop breasts from growing or cause breast cancer.
It's generally recommended that a bra should last anywhere between 6-9 months, although we think that with good care your bras should last a lot longer. We encourage you to look after them as much as they look after you - extending the life of your clothes by even a small amount has a significant environmental benefit.
Most people have between one and four special occasion bras, though some may have more depending on their style and what type of clothes they like to wear. You might own anywhere between five and 15 (or even more) bras. It all depends on your lifestyle and your preferences.