The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle.
Size 14 (European 90) – Choose when sewing medium-weight fabrics such as rayon, gabardine, satin, chino, linen, denim; thick quilts. Use ballpoint size 14 for light to medium-weight knits such as tricot or jersey.
Chenille Needles:
Chenille needles are often referred to as a combination between a tapestry needle and a crewel or embroidery needle. They are sized the same as tapestry needles. Usually starting at size 14 and all the way up to size 28 (which is the finest needle you can find).
Think lightweight flowy fabrics for dresses and blouses. 90/14 needles are great when you are starting to sew medium weight fabrics like poplin, broadcloth and muslin. Think printed quilting cotton. These three sizes come standard in a pack of Schmetz universal needles, which is a great pack to get you started.
Stretch Sewing Machine Needles 90/14 SCHMETZ Overview
Suitable for use with medium weight stretch fabrics, elastic materials and highly elastic knitwear. The medium ball point, specially designed eye and scarf prevent skipped stitches. Size: 14/90. Suitable for: Sewing Machines.
Needle sizes are usually 10, 11, 12 (12 is usually shorter than 10s and stiffer), 13, 15 (both really fine for looping back through beads multiple times).
A thin or sheer fabric will need a fine needle, so you can safely go for a 60/8. If you're sewing denim or curtain fabric, then you need to look at a 90/14 or 100/16. For medium weight cotton quilting fabric, a 70/10 or 80/12 sized needle will be fine.
Sharp and Microtex needles are the sharpest, most slender needle type. Its slim, sharp point cuts through tightly woven fabric and are ideal for natural fabrics, both woven (cotton and linen) and knit (wool and cotton jersey).
1) Milliner Needle / Sharps
These needles are the thinnest among all sewing needles. They have a small round eye and a long shaft. These needles come in various sizes from 1 to 12 with 1 being the largest needle. These needles are perfect for general sewing purpose.
The higher the gauge, the smaller the hole. Needles come in various gauges and lengths. The length of a needle is listed after the gauge number.
Straight needles come in different lengths, typically 10 inches, 14 inches, and 16 inches.
Sewing Needle Sizes
Size 8/60, 9/65, 10/70 - (Very fine fabrics) Use for fine silk, chiffon, organza, voile and fine lace. Size 14/90 - (Medium weight fabrics) Use for quilting fabrics, cotton, velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, jersey, tricot, knits, light wool, sweatshirt knits, fleece.
As a beginner, needle size 8 to 9 (5 – 5.5 mm) and worsted weight yarn are an excellent starting point.
4 mm. The smallest, thinnest needle is the nano 4 mm, 32 gauge needle, which is about as thin as two strands of hair.
The best choice for lighter cotton is a sharp number 14 needle (90/14). If cotton is unlined or used in a lightweight, unlined garment, such as a cotton blouse, it may be best to use a cotton-specific needle in 80/12 and then finish by hand with cotton thread to ensure that the stitches don't pull out.
The smallest needles are usually 3-5 magnums. They're good for tight line work and small details. The next size up is usually 7-9 magnums, which are good for larger details and wider lines.
The general rule is the bigger the size number, the bigger the needle. And the thinner the fabric you are using, the smaller the needle size you will need, and vice versa for thicker fabrics (you will need a larger needle).
Most adolescents and adults will require a 1- to 1.5-inch (25–38 mm) needle to ensure intramuscular administration.
Needles marked 100/16 are ideal for heavy fabrics like denim, and those marked 110/18 are very thick and best sew the heaviest fabrics, such as upholstery.
Europe uses a numbering system for needle sizes (thickness): 60/8 for very fine fabrics. 70/9 for fine fabrics. 80/11 for medium weight fabrics.
Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. They are used with heavyweight threads such as upholstery and topstitching threads.