You Can Sand Too Much, Which Prevents Wood From Taking Stain Then there's no place left for the stain to absorb. Avoiding this problem is easy – stop sanding once you've reach 180 grit. If you've already sanded too much, re-sand with with a lower grit sandpaper. I'd start with 80 grit, and work your way up to 180 grit.
Sanding your wood before staining removes any protective coatings while opening up the pores for maximum stain penetration. The result is a richer, more vibrant color that lasts longer while keeping the wood protected. The final sanding grit for WOCA Master Color Oil is in the 100-120 range.
Sand to a coarser grit. To get a darker coloring with any stain when you are wiping off the excess, sand to a coarser grit. More of the colorant will lodge in the sanding scratches, producing a darker effect.
The takeaway? Wood stain is intended to be wiped off immediately after application. If the wood stain remains on the wood, liquid solvents in the stain will evaporate, leaving sticky pigments behind that will never fully dry. To remove tacky wood stain, firmly scrub the piece with mineral spirits.
Wood filler doesn't take stain well because it doesn't share wood's color, pattern or texture and collects stain in imperfections. Wood conditioners can lessen color mismatches, but sanding creates them.
They really all come down to the same question, though; is wood filler actually stainable? Most wood fillers are formulated to take stain. However, stained wood filler frequently looks significantly different than the surrounding wood, creating an undesirable appearance.
The wood filler should state on the packaging whether it's stainable or not—if it's water-based or solvent-based, it should hold a stain well. If it isn't stainable, such as an oil-based wood filler, it won't hold the color well when you go to paint it.
If applied too thickly, they won't dry properly and will remain tacky to the touch. This can also happen if the wood wasn't stripped and sanded completely down to bare wood, since the stain will sit on the surface rather than soaking into the wood.
Mix equal parts of vinegar and water in a cup. The acidic solution helps remove sticky residue and worn out varnish from your table. Dip your sponge into the solution and start wiping down the table completely. Avoid scrubbing with too much pressure as it will leave scratch marks on the surface of your table.
If the color is then not even, or it's too light, you'll need to apply more stain. Switch to a slower drying stain, work on smaller sections at a time, or apply and wipe off the stain faster by using a cloth or spray gun to apply the stain and a large dry cotton cloth to remove the excess stain.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
Leave a dampness of stain on the wood that dries to a darker coloring. This will take practice to get the coloring even, especially on large and multiple surfaces. Just as with leaving the stain on longer, this technique is easiest to do with a fast-drying stain such as lacquer stain.
Most brands recommend letting the wood stain sit for 5 to 15 minutes to absorb into the wood and then wipe off all of the excesses with a clean lint-free rag. If the stain is applied too thick, the surface will be tacky and sticky to the touch and will not dry evenly.
You should sand after the first coat of water-based stain to flatten any wood grain the water raised, but it's unnecessary after that. You don't need to sand between coats of gel stain or oil-based stain.
You should reserve adding a second layer only if you want a darker color for the stain. However, many times, the first layer of stain will suffice for both adequate protection and the desired color.
There are a couple of reasons wood won't absorb stain. These include staining sealed wood, sanding too finely, and working with tight-grained woods that don't take stain. There are specific solutions to each problem, but generally applying a sealer and a stain that sits on top of the wood is a simple solution.
Because the additional coat is not penetrating the wood, it is simply layered on top, which will cause the coat to be more fragile and will not offer the same level of protection as the proper amount of stain. Additionally, moisture in the wood can not escape, which will result in the stain peeling.
If you apply a second, unnecessary coat of stain to wood that is already adequately covered, you risk creating a tacky surface that is prone to early peeling because the second coat is not penetrating the wood surface, but simply laying on top of the first coat of stain.
You should also consider the type of wood you are staining, amount of stain you're applying, and weather conditions, like humidity, temperature, and air circulation. On average, wood stain takes about 24 to 72 hours to fully dry and cure, though you can typically add a second coat after about four hours.
Wait at least 12 hours before applying a new coat.
If a stain is not completely dry after the above-mentioned period, allow the wood to sit and wait for another 24 hours. Some wood stains will require more time to dry than others.
The longer a stain is left untreated, the less likely it is to be removed. When a spill first occurs, it sits on the surface of the fabric, but over time, that spill can start to react with the fabric causing the fabric to actually change colors.
Most stains should be sealed to prevent bleeding. After smoothing the stained wood, apply a sealer coat of thinned shellac, sanding sealer, or other appropriate sealer. Do not use shellac with NGR or water-base stains. If you plan to finish the piece with polyurethane, make sure the sealer is compatible.