Generally speaking, it's a good idea to completely remove all traces of the previous coat of deck stain before applying a new one. The reasons for this may be fairly obvious -- a previous coat of stain might be peeling away from the surface in several areas.
Can I stain on top of old stain? Yes! In fact, applying stain over stain is a fairly simple process. It works especially well if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain.
Good news, you can stain wood without sanding the old finish off! But you'll still have to do some prep to make the new gel stain bond properly with the old stain. Start by always cleaning the old finish with a good cleaner and degreaser, like TSP. Be sure to rinse all of that cleaner off before moving on.
Sand out the stain
To sand wood previously stained you must start by using medium-grit sandpaper followed by a progression of increasingly finer sandpaper grits. This should remove most of the color left by an old stain. If you're applying a new stain, it should mask any residual color.
Wood stain is intended to be wiped off immediately after application. If the wood stain remains on the wood, liquid solvents in the stain will evaporate, leaving sticky pigments behind that will never fully dry.
The short answer is unfortunately no, not all stains can be removed, and here are three reasons why. The longer a stain is left untreated, the less likely it is to be removed.
Any excess stain will redissolve and come off, leaving only the stain that penetrated into the wood. If almost all the stain comes off when you wipe it, the surface probably wasn't sanded enough.
Generally speaking, it's a good idea to completely remove all traces of the previous coat of deck stain before applying a new one. The reasons for this may be fairly obvious -- a previous coat of stain might be peeling away from the surface in several areas.
It all starts with sanding. You need a smooth surface with no blemishes because stain will highlight scratches and dings in the wood. Always sand down to clean wood (if you have enough meat left of the wood) before applying any stain.
If you're brushing one of the fast drying stains, not only might you cause blotching when you wipe off the excess, you may get lap marks caused by brushing more stain over stain that has dried. Brushing is the slowest method of applying stain. So not only might you get blotching or lap marks, you're also wasting time.
The trouble you may encounter is the adhesion of any clear coat you may apply . Not wiping the excess stain and leaving it may leave extra pigment between the final finish and the wood . Finish needs to be able to “grab “ the wood to adhere .
PolyShades® will work over stained wood (meaning it does not have a clear protective finish) or wood top-coated with a polyurethane-based finish. Proper surface preparation is necessary to ensure adhesion, so make sure you follow preparation tips provided in this Guide.
Uneven Stain Coloring - Too Light
If you find that some areas of the wood stain are lighter than the target color you have in your head, you can apply additional stain to those areas. Use a piece of cloth or rag to apply another coat of the same stain to the wood in the area that is too light.
Because the additional coat is not penetrating the wood, it is simply layered on top, which will cause the coat to be more fragile and will not offer the same level of protection as the proper amount of stain. Additionally, moisture in the wood can not escape, which will result in the stain peeling.
It is important to note that unless your cabinets are raw wood, the existing finish must be removed. Whether this is paint or a different stain, it should be stripped using a paint and varnish stripper before applying the new stain.
You should sand after the first coat of water-based stain to flatten any wood grain the water raised, but it's unnecessary after that. You don't need to sand between coats of gel stain or oil-based stain.
Sand the Surface
Let the wood dry for 24 hours. Then, sand the surface with 100- to 150-grit sandpaper. Use a sanding block or an orbital sander. Apply only enough pressure to take off any residue and rough areas.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
With a staining brush, work both with the grain and against it. Don't worry about being neat; all that matters is getting a nice, even, liberal coat over the wood. Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off.
Most lumber you buy at a hardwood store is kiln-dried. You should allow this wood to dry for at least one to two months before staining or painting.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a darker coloring, but it adds a step to the process and slows production. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment.
Applying a second coat of stain to change the color is something you might try once, but the chances of success are not very good. A second coat of stain can cause other issues like peeling of the top coat(s).