Retinoids suppress the production of melanin and hence reduce discoloration.
The short answer is yes, Retinol products can be as good for African American skin as it is for lighter skin tones. Retinol has a ton of anti-aging advantages, from minimizing dark spots to renewing collagen production.
Retinol for dark spots
Some people find that topical retinol lightens their skin spots, though it takes months and can be irritating to your skin. It's a good idea to see a dermatologist (a medical doctor who specializes in conditions of the skin) if you're concerned about dark spots.
“If the retinol you're using is too strong for your skin causing inflammation, darker skin tones may have a higher risk of discoloration, or hyperpigmentation, from the use of it," she adds.
Retinol also stimulates collagen production, which is another way it diminishes dark spots. Not only will dark spots be reduced, but wrinkles and sagging skin will also begin to diminish, and the effects of retinol products will continue to work just as effectively over time.
While vitamin C is most notable for helping to brighten and improve hyperpigmentation, retinol is typically considered best-in-class for wrinkles and fine lines. And if you really want to give your skin a one-two punch to get noticeably healthier, you can certainly try incorporating both into your routine.
If you stop retinol and do not begin a prescription retinoid, the benefit of preventing acne will go away. The skin cycle of cells being “born” at the base of the skin and moving to the top, dying and desquamating into the surrounding environment takes about 4-6 weeks.
Dermatologists consider products with hydroquinone, alone or combined with other lighteners, to be the gold standard for fading dark spots because it slows the production of pigment. These are available by prescription, per the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Skin purging happens when new ingredients, like retinol, promote increased cell turnover, which causes clogging and worsening breakouts. This is particularly the case as oil and debris that is trapped deeper underneath the skin comes to the surface.
How long does it take for hyperpigmentation to fade? Once what's causing the dark spots or patches is found and stopped, fading can take time. A spot that is a few shades darker than your natural skin color will usually fade within 6 to 12 months. If the color lies deep in your skin, however, fading can take years.
Use Retinol Only at Night and Wear SPF Every Day
"Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays and sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product," explains Bowe, who instructs patients to only use retinoids at night and be diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day.
Using retinoids may aggravate allergic skin. Avoid using it if you have an active eczema rash. Retinol is not recommended for pregnant women. Dr Lahiri says that it is friendly for Indian skin.
Retinoids are useful in the treatment of hyperpigmentation because they reduce epidermal melanin by blocking the transcription of tyrosinase, induce desquamation, disperse keratinocyte pigment granules and enhance epidermal cell turnover via epidermopoiesis.
Vitamin C is a naturally occurring substance and an essential nutrient. It has various biological and pharmaceutical functions. It inhibits melanin synthesis through downregulation of tyrosinase enzyme activity.
Vitamin C is an effective skin lightener that has been described as a melanogenesis inhibitor due to its inhibition of tyrosinase and reduction of melanin and melanin intermediates, such as dopaquinone.
Topical retinol is generally safe for long-term use without any detrimental health risks.
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
It just really does everything.” Among the many benefits of retinol, it can increase cell turnover and stimulate collagen and elastin production. It can increase the appearance of firmness by plumping up fine lines and wrinkles. It can improve uneven skin tone, treat pigmentation and smooth the surface of skin.
It is only possible to reduce melanin in the skin temporarily. In addition, using sunscreen as well as limiting sun exposure will also help reduce melanin and improve skin tone. However, there is no permanent method to reduce melanin, because it is determined by genetic factors.
While you might know Retinols for their ability to treat other skin issues, they can actually be a very effective well to help improve the appearance of your hyperpigmentation. Retinols can help get your skin back to its clear, glowing self when used correctly and consistently.
In fact, harsh active ingredients Americans have long sought out to combat signs of aging, particularly retinol, are much less popular in Korea because Koreans prefer to avoid their drying and irritating side effects, Dr. Chang says.
Also avoid retinol if you're going to be spending a lot of time in direct sunlight without proper sun protection. Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it's important to use sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day — even when it looks cloudy.
Who should skip retinol? “Retinols can be a beneficial addition for most skin types, but it isn't a one-size-fits-all approach,” Panzica says. Board certified dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, MD, notes that “people with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea cannot tolerate really strong topicals like retinols.”