Reducing hitch noise with an anti-rattle. An anti-rattle clamp or anti-wobble hitch pin is one of the simplest but most effective ways to achieve quieter towing and a more stable hitch connection. An anti-rattle installs tightly against the shank to keep it from vibrating inside the receiver.
When towing, there is nothing more annoying than a ball mount shank that rattles in its receiver tube as you drive down the road. This rattling sound comes from a small amount of space between the receiver tube and an ill-fitting shank. If this gap is bad enough, it can even lead to sway in the load.
Most of the noise we hear typically comes from the hitch area of the set up. Metal on metal rubbing causes a lot of noise, especially when the metal has a thin layer of rust on it (be honest, your trailer hitch probably has rust on it). The quickest solution is to keep a can of LIQUID WRENCH White Lithium Grease handy.
Occasionally a newly installed hitch will make contact with a vehicle's exhaust system, even if the hitch was installed properly. The exhaust-to-hitch contact can result in a rattling noise.
A trailer hitch anti-rattle pin has a threaded shank to tighten down on the ball mount and keep it from vibrating in the receiver. An anti-rattle hitch clamp can be used with a hollow or solid shank.
The Benefits of Using Hitch Ball Grease
The lubricant serves as a barrier between the coating on the ball hitch and the coupler that will fit over it. This means you'll have less wear and tear on your hitch each time you tow something. Additionally, grease will give it more protection against rust buildup over time.
Protect Your Tow Hitch
Grab a can of WD-40 Specialist® White Lithium Grease, and spray the superior formula all over the surface. This fast-acting spray will provide an invisible layer of protection from friction caused by metal-to-metal applications.
A little bit of play is acceptable, the coupler should be tight enough that the coupler won't come off the ball, but not so tight you can't close the latch. I typically tighten the coupler up until I feel a slight resistance when closing the coupler latch, then I'll back it off slightly from there.
The anti-rattle bolt and nut (where fitted) is designed to prevent movement of the tow bar tongue when the tongue is unloaded. The anti- rattle bolt must be removed when towing or damage to the tow bar may occur.
ozjohn wrote: The towbar gooseneck will only rattle when no load is attached, or near zero ball weight. With the anti-rattle bolt done up it will have to support the shifting load of the trailer and will eventually fail.
How do you tighten a hitch ball? The best way to tighten a hitch ball is to use a torque wrench so that everything tightens to the manufacturer's specifications. Hand tighten the nut and lock washer to prevent slipping. Put the torque wrench (or another wrench) on the nut and tighten it.
Grease is the only lubricant hitch ball manufacturers recommend. Grease is a heavy-duty lubricant that is capable of providing great lubrication, even under enormous pressure. Whichever grease you use, you'll only need to apply a small amount to the hitch ball.
If you pull a travel trailer you are likely to hear this sound being emitted from your hitch after a few years of use. The culprit? Wear in and around the hitch pin, receiver and hitch shank. The resulting “slop” allows the hitch shank to shift back and forth in the receiver when you stop and start.
It's recommended that you use a dry graphite lubricant like CRC Dry Graphite Lube so that you can prevent dirt from sticking to the hitch. One of the biggest concerns opponents of trailer hitch grease have is that it can attract dirt.
You did know that you must grease the ball up before you tow, right? (Any kind of grease is fine, bearing grease, silicone lube, Vaseline etc.)
A general rule of thumb is to grease your hitch two to three times a year. Most RV owners/operators reapply dry lubricants every spring and fall or before a long towing trip. (You don't have to grease hitch balls every time you tow).
Vaseline
A staple in many bathroom drawers and medicine cabinets, Vaseline is more commonly used to combat dry skin. But the same greasy, gloopy texture that helps it moisturize can also help it act as a last-minute replacement to WD-40.
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Overgreasing by applying too much grease to a bearing at one time can result in a seal failure and generate heat in the bearing housing. When too much grease is pumped into a bearing cavity, it eventually will become full. If there is no relief port on the housing, the grease will blow through the seals.
Without lubrication, the hitch ball will wear out prematurely and will need replaced far more often than a well greased hitch ball. Grease on the ball also helps the trailer to “follow” the vehicle more easily because the coupler can rotate on the ball with less friction.
Grease: Proper lubrication is essential to the proper function and reliability of your trailer axle. Bearings should be lubricated every 12 months or 12,000 miles.