Let's get straight into the million-pound question: do gels and Shellac manicures damage your nails? The short answer is no — but only if you look after them. "Shellac and gels won't damage your nails providing it is applied, removed, and cared for correctly," said Victoria Trafford, CND's education ambassador.
Why Does Shellac Ruin Natural Nails? Any polish that is cured onto your nail has the potential for nail damage. Usually, shellac and gel manicures begin by intentionally damaging the top layer of the nail bed to essentially "rough it up." They do it because the polish adheres better to a textured surface.
Unfortunately, leaving your CND™ Shellac™ manicure on for too long can result in service breakdown; lifting, chipping, discolouration etc.
Longer-lasting manicures that involve curing the polish onto nails, like shellac, involve a harsher removal process than regular polish. And even though shellac is considered one of the gentler options, there is still the chance that it can cause damage to the nail bed, especially when removed incorrectly.
On average, they last up to 2 weeks, with some lucky few getting a good 3 weeks in! However, it isn't uncommon to experience issues with how long these nails actually last, and there have been cases where Shellac nails start to peel after only a few days.
“As long as there's no lifting [of the gel polish], let your nails grow and simply file down the lengths,” says CND brand ambassador Winnie Huang, who also encourages daily nail conditioning with a cuticle oil.
Some may find that the chip-free finish lasts longer than this, but it's recommended that you get them removed after 14 days as by this time your own nail will have started to grow out.
While there is nothing wrong with shellac itself, it's the curing process that raises safety concerns. LED light lamps used to cure shellac emit UV rays, and extended exposure to UV rays can have potential side effects, including premature aging of the skin, age spots, and skin cancer.
One drawback to shellac, Seney points out, is that because it has traditional polish mixed in the formula, gel nails last longer. Although shellac is a little bit more susceptible to chipping than gel, both still last much longer than regular polish.
"I usually say Shellac doesn't damage nails; humans do." Gel polish is typically best removed with acetone, but CND makes a remover specifically for its Shellac formula that's designed to also hydrate the nails. Acetone is notoriously drying, which is why nail professionals recommend using a cuticle oil post-removal.
If you do want to do it at home, however, know that because shellac is a polish, it's easier to remove than gel and kinder to your nails as you don't have to buff your nail plate to 'break' the bond.
Manicures with shellac or gel nails use ultraviolet (UV) light to dry the polished nails. The issue here is that UV nail dryers expose people to UVA radiation — that is, the same harmful rays emitted by the sun, which have been linked to an increased risk of skin cancer.
The simple answer is your nails are dry causing peeling and brittle nails. Shellac cannot damage or weaken your nails once applied and removed correctly.
Additionally, while Shellac appears to help avoid the damage to the nails caused by acrylics, SNS goes a step further, according to Vo. “SNS is positively good for nail health. The SNS dipping powder system is fortified with no less than four vitamins, plus the all-important mineral calcium.
You can use a drop of cuticle oil every night to keep the nails moisturized too. Drinking enough glasses of water daily can also help you stay hydrated which is great for skin and nails. Some shellac colours are affected by exposure to too much sunlight.
Most salons only charge a small amount for shellac removal and use high-quality products that leave your nails in tiptop condition. Most salons use acetone with a 60% concentration or more.
Shellac is a hybrid – half gel polish and half nail polish. It can be applied onto your natural nails, much like regular nail polish and cured via UV lamp, similar to gel polish. If regular polish takes too long to dry for your liking and gel is too much maintenance, shellac may be the right choice for you.
Shellac vs gel: the low down on which is better
For longer lasting, with more colour options, choose gel. For shine and ease, choose shellac. Talk to your nail technician and they may also have individual recommendations for you.
There is very little evidence that SNS is any better or worse for your nails than gel polish, hard gel or acrylic. What causes damage to your natural nails is not the product itself, but the application and removal process. This is why your technician will advise you not to pick at or peel off your gel or acrylic.
These are called keratin granulations, which happen because the top layers of the nail cells are removed along with nail polish leaving behind white patches on the nail bed. The good news is they can be removed easily with DIY techniques.
If you're using gel manicures, remember that your nails need to breathe. Don't keep the same polish on for more than a few weeks, and make sure to take breaks between manicures. This will help minimize damage to your nails and keep them healthy and strong in the long run.
Any remover with an acetone content of 60 per cent or more will work, but it's best to find one designed to remove shellac or gel polish – like this one – as it will be less harsh on your skin and nail beds. Pure acetone is also very effective, but it can also be drying to your skin and nail beds.
As a starting point, Choi recommends taking a break from gel for at least two weeks to a month to start seeing a real difference. "For painful, more intense damage from repeated picking and peeling, it can take anywhere from four to eight weeks to grow the nails back out," says Reynosa.
A shellac manicure can usually last 14 days without chipping. If you want your shellac to last another fortnight or so, protecting your natural nails, a nude-ish Shellac Forte is your best bet.