The best base for a compost bin is no base. Containers without bases give entry to microorganisms and creepy crawlies from the ground below. They also allow excess water to drain into the soil. Some gardeners line the bottom of an open bin with chicken wire to keep rodents out.
Whether you're using a composting bin, or building up a garden compost pile, it is important to know how to layer your compost. Start with a base layer of twigs, mulch or old potting mix to encourage air circulation and provide drainage.
Plastic compost bins
(Indeed, some councils provide them for free.) These are often lightweight, meaning it's easy to move them around the garden. Some plastic bins have no base, so when you have finished composting you can simply lift them up, leaving you with a heap of finished compost ready for your garden.
Whether you include a base plate is up to you. In most cases, though, it will be a good idea. It can boost the efficiency of the composting process, allow access to worms, and stop critters from getting into the compost.
Many people prefer the speed and efficiency of a compost bin. They retain warmth and moisture and will turn organic matter into compost more quickly. A good compost bin should shelter the matter from rain and have drainage holes. They also need to facilitate air flow and can be open or closed at the bottom.
Problem 1: Too Wet
The most common problem is excess moisture, which causes foul odours, flies, and the production of substances harmful to your plants. Adding too much fresh material, instead of a balanced mix of fresh and dry materials, is the usual culprit.
Standing the bin on an earth base provides good access for soil organisms and allows easy drainage. But a hard surface is fine too – just add a few spadefuls of soil to get it off to a good start.
If lifting slabs or pavers is not practicable, the bin can be located directly on concrete, tarmac, patio slabs or decking. However, it is normal for liquid (leach ate) to seep out of a compost bin and this may stain surface.
Your compost bin will work the best when it's placed in a sunny spot on bare soil. It doesn't matter if it's in a shady spot, but it will take longer for your compost to develop. It's best to place your bin on levelled ground where any excess water can drain away easily.
A compost bin should generally have holes every 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) and a significant number of holes in its foundation if it's not bottomless. They provide good drainage and easy access for beneficial insects and bacteria from the soil.
Base: Compost bins do not usually have, or need, a base. Free access to the soil allows good drainage and easy ingress for worms and other creatures that are important in the composting process. Where vermin are a problem, a metal bin with an integral base is a good idea, as long as there is adequate drainage.
Beneath the layers of compost materials, sheet mulches typically include a layer of cardboard to keep grass and weeds from growing through – a great way to smother unwanted vegetation or convert a sod lawn into a garden.
You do not need to add worms to your compost pile. Outside, composting happens with and without the help of earthworms. Worms will usually find their own way to a compost pile.
Composting works in sun or shade Piles in sunny spots will decompose quicker but also dry out faster and may need supplemental watering during hot dry weather. Those located in a shadier spot will stay moist longer but decompose slower. In either case, make sure the soil below the pile is well-drained.
DON'T add meat scraps, bones, grease, whole eggs, or dairy products to the compost pile because they decompose slowly, cause odors, and can attract rodents. DON'T add pet feces or spent cat liter to the compost pile. DON'T add diseased plant material or weeds that have gone to seed.
A compost pile needs to be kept moist but not waterlogged. A 50% moisture level is the ideal average to aim for. What is this? As compost piles are exposed to the elements, keeping their moisture at the coveted damp, not soggy level can be tricky.
Turning once a week or once every two weeks had generally lower decomposition rates. To maintain a thermophilic pile (pile with high heat), it should be turned every three to four days, or when the temperature drops below 104 F. However, if most of the material has been decomposed, less frequent turning is adequate.
Decomposition will be complete anywhere from two weeks to two years depending on the materials used, the size of the pile, and how often it is turned. Compost is ready when it has cooled, turned a rich brown color, and has decomposed into small soil-like particles.
You can easily put your bin onto gravel, whether it be in a gravel garden or on a gravel driveway or path. If you have laid a membrane beneath the gravel, you will need to cut a hole or slits in the membrane so that the soil-dwelling organisms can get through.
When composting at home, you definitely don't need a liner in your countertop compost container or in a larger collection bucket. We do not use liners in our countertop compost bucket at home.
Weeds have many nutrients so they are a great addition to the compost pile, but you do not want compost filled with viable weed seeds. The best time to take care of weeds is when they are small and have not established deep roots or seed heads (easier to pull, too, especially if ground is still moist).
Insulation, such as flattened cardboard, old carpet or polythene sacks filled with straw will help retain this heat. It's also important to stop the winter heap becoming overly wet, so covering the bin is vital. The secret to perfect compost is to get the right ingredients well mixed or layered.
Egg shells are an excellent addition to a compost pile, as they provide calcium and other key nutrients. Whole eggs, egg whites, and egg yolks do not belong in the compost pile, though.