There is a custom within the surfing world that when a member of the surf community dies, all his friends throw him or her a “paddle out.” A paddle out is a surfer's version of a funeral. Everyone paddles out beyond the persons favorite local surf break and arranges themselves in a circle.
A floating memorial in the water, known as a Paddle Out, takes place after someone dies. A Paddle Out consists of several surfers, also paddle boarders and kayakers, “paddle out” with flowers in their teeth and join hands to form a floating circle.
Just the action of touching the water will force you to get lower to your surfboard and maintain a low centre of gravity. It will also make you turn harder and faster which will send you back towards the lip of the wave on a more vertical trajectory and give your surfing a more dynamic look.
Surfers use vocal communication at takeoff and in waves. To avoid collision, surfers tend to apply good practices at different moments: when paddling out, when paddling into a wave, when taking off, when riding, when kicking out.
The paddle-out is an ocean-based ceremony consisting of a mix of spiritual, metaphysical, and ritual actions that acknowledge, remember, and celebrate a fallen peer. It's a symbolic rite of passage that showcases traces of connection and separation, departure, and continuity.
A surfer needs to continually paddle to get into the best position to catch a wave. Catching a surge in the precise spot can make all the difference in the world. The better paddler you are, the more waves you're going to find and the easier it will be to catch those waves.
SUMMER PADDLING (60°F or higher)
Swimsuits, swim trunks, and board shorts are all great choices. We also recommend wearing a UV protective layer, like a lightweight and breathable rashguard. This will add some extra sun protection to your outfit and can help prevent chafing too.
The most common surf fear is that of wave height. Many fear to ride big waves for three commonly cited reasons: the wipeout from the top of a giant wall of water; the chance of hitting a reef or a rocky bottom; and drowning, or the loss of breath.
This hostile behavior, commonly referred to as surf localism, is an attempt to deter outsiders from enjoying coveted and choice waves.
It concluded that surfers "describe the surfing sensation as a hybrid of meditative and athletic experience. Numerous empirical studies link both meditative experience and exercise with reduced incidence of depression and anxiety; this potentially suggests that surfers may endorse fewer symptoms of either disorder."
The shaka sign, sometimes known as "hang loose" or "right on", is a gesture with friendly intent often associated with Hawaii and surf culture.
It can be used to say “Thanks” or “Cool” or “Yeah”, it can also mean “Hello” or “Goodbye”. But when asked to define the sign, Hawaiian people say that it is a sign of Aloha ie appreciation and love and that for them it is something that is part of their daily life.
If you see a shark near you, just get out of the water. Give them their space and come back and surf later. Chances are that if you see them you're probably safe since they do love a good sneak attack, but just the same, this small preventative measure may keep you surfing for years to come.
It is also taboo to wear bright colours such as red or yellow during the mourning period. Immediate family members wear a coarse burlap overcoat, hat and slippers to show that the mourners' care for appearances and personal comfort have given way to grief.
Loved ones will take turns to sit with the body at the family home, temple or funeral parlour, while mourners may bring offerings of things like incense or food. This can last up to seven days. During this period, it's traditional for mourners to offer money as a donation to the soul of the dead person.
A common Chinese superstition dictates that spirits hanging around gravesites often attempt to follow the living home after a funeral procession. The family of the deceased may present you with a red thread following the funeral. You are supposed to take the thread home and tie it to your doorknob.
GLOWING SURFER SKIN
The circulation health benefits of surfing already contribute to naturally glowing skin, but so does the salt water and natural elements exposure too. That's why surfers always look so hot!
AGGRO. Aggro is surf slang for an aggressive surfer. You know the ones, they usually paddle around splashing and cursing.
Most shark experts agree that the reason sharks attack humans (and specifically surfers) unprovoked is simply due to a case of mistaken identity, pointing out the similarity in shape between a surfboard and a seal.
There is mounting evidence that surfing does, in fact, make you happier. Most recently, in December of 2022 a study was released in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health that showed a positive relationship between surfing and mental well-being.
Paddling out
Many people will tell you that this is the hardest part of surfing. Depending on the conditions, paddling out can either be a walk in the park or it can feel like the most intense workout you've ever done.
The most common cause of death among surfers is drowning, often due to being held underwater or tangled in their leash, combined with strong currents and waves overwhelming the surfer.
Mele Oli. Mele oli is a ritual chant that is versatile enough to be used for a funeral or a birth. It is chanted by only one person.
If you are wearing anything thicker than 3mm, your shoulder movement will be fairly impaired and you will find it quite annoying to paddle. To avoid this, we recommend wearing a thick pair of leggings, as your legs will be, for most of the time, quite static.
Hawaiian Burial at Sea in Waikīkī
The scattering of ashes into the open ocean is a timeless tradition that spans across many cultures around the world. Many people, from former residents to return visitors, have made Waikīkī their final resting place.