Both acids and solvents can damage uncured concrete, and therefore are not recommended for use on green concrete. Water-based concrete stains, like those used by California Custom Coatings, do not use either of these components.
On a new concrete slab, how long must you wait before you can acid stain it? -John. Hi John, You should allow the concrete to cure thoroughly before staining or finishing, to allow any excess water in the slab to evaporate.
Concrete should be fully cured before applying acid stain, so if your surface is new, wait 28 days before staining.
Acid staining damages the concrete to some extent and will need to receive some form of a resinous coating on top to be usable in most business settings. While it does give it a flashier look than polishing, acid stained concrete will always be subject to damaging easier than polished concrete.
New concrete should be fully cured before staining, which takes between 21 and 28 days. Whether you're a professional wanting to add staining to your repertoire or a homeowner who loves a DIY challenge, here are the steps for staining concrete: Clean and prepare the concrete. Apply the concrete stain.
If the concrete surface is painted or sealed, acid stains cannot penetrate the concrete and react with the lime. Therefore, a concrete surface that is painted or sealed cannot be acid stained.
Answer: Most people like to stain and seal at the same time, although you can come back a week later and seal if you like. If you're going to wait between staining and sealing, just do a light power wash to clean the concrete and let it dry prior to sealing.
Concrete can look strikingly professional and luxurious with the right stain. But before you apply a stain, you need to prep the floor thoroughly for staining. An effective stain starts with a clean and clear surface. If you don't, you'll be left with floors that are irreversibly marked and damaged.
Schmidt also warns against acid etching of floors before staining. A lot of people think they need to acid etch the concrete like they do before applying a paint or coating, to get the paint to adhere. But acid washing depletes the lime content, which is what the minerals in the acid stain react with.
Some contractors use one or more muriatic acid washes to artificially weather concrete. Others suggest first etching the surface, then washing it with a mixture of carbon black and water. A third alternate is using a diluted black or brown concrete stain to darken the color.
Strip and remove all previous sealers, paints, adhesives and coatings. For oil spots use a degreaser and neutralizer (diluted 4 to 1) and rinse well. For acid staining, use a concrete etch and cleaner to prepare the surface and rinse well. Concrete must be porous enough to accept water.
A. Once that stain chemically reacts for a minimum of four to six hours—typically, you'll leave an acid stain overnight—it brings salts to the surface.
To change the color of concrete before it is poured, add a tint or dye to the mix. People who want to use concrete in their landscaping often ask how they can change the color. If the concrete has already been poured your best option is applying a stain to the surface.
In addition to the water test, feel the surface of the concrete — a properly etched concrete surface should look and feel like 120-grit medium sandpaper. If it is properly etched, your surface is now ready for you to apply your sealant or coating.
Allow new concrete to cure completely (at least 28 days or as recommended). Most sealers must be applied under dry conditions. Applying to damp concrete could cause haziness or loss of adhesion. Air temperatures should be above 50°F during sealer application and for at least 24 hours after.
The Afternoon is generally the best time of the day to apply concrete sealers and coatings. Reducing Temperature: By the afternoon the air and surface temperatures are decreasing causing any trapped air/gas to compress which will result in the sealer/coating to penetrate and cure flat without any blistering.
Leaving concrete unsealed will leave it with a flat look. The color will remain flatter and dull, in addition to the concrete remaining porous and easier to damage. Sealing the concrete will enhance the colors and give it more of a marble or mottled look, smoother and with richer colors.
Acid stain is a translucent, penetrating stain that slightly etches and permanently changes the color of concrete by reacting chemically with the hydrated lime in the concrete.
To neutralize the acid stain, you can use a baking soda solution by mixing 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda per gallon of water. Once the stain has been given adequate time to react and the residue has dried, you can apply the baking soda solution by spraying or pouring it over the entire surface of the floor.
Surface prep
New concrete must be fully cured before applying stain, and existing concrete can present any number of problems depending on its exposure to weather, spills or chemicals and the type of wear it has received. Unlike paints and coatings which are opaque and can mask many evils, acid stains are translucent.
Both acids and solvents can damage uncured concrete, and therefore are not recommended for use on green concrete.
So long as you properly neutralize and rinse the concrete well a couple of times, it should be fine. Note: If you do not properly neutralize the stain, then the sealer will lose it's bond, which will then have to be stripped and re-applied. If you leave too much residue you could have streaking or discoloration.
Will rain ruin a newly stained deck? Answer: Yes, if the stain has not fully dried or cured, it may permanently damage the deck stain.