"Studies have shown that layering topical retinoids over moisturizers minimizes skin irritation without interfering with how well they work in the skin," says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
According to the Cleveland Clinic, if your retinol is irritating your skin, you should apply a thin layer of moisturizer before applying it to give your skin a little barrier. If your retinol is not irritating your skin, then depending on the formula, you can apply it before your moisturizer.
Retinol (leave to absorb for 10-20 minutes)
Retinol is also an ingredient that should be left to absorb sufficiently into the skin before following up with another product. “It is important to leave a 10-20 minute wait time before applying the next product.
“If you forget to moisturize while using retinol, your risk of sensitivity is higher,” Dr. Shah says. Also, avoid using retinol every day right off the bat — you'll want to increase use as your skin builds tolerance.
Technically, the "retinol sandwich" method does protect against potential irritation caused by applying retinol to the skin. However, that's because the first layer of moisturizer acts as a barrier, which keeps the retinol from penetrating the skin and diminishes its effects, according to dermatologists.
Retinol before Moisturizer
Retinol should not be used on damp skin because the skin will absorb more than required and cause irritation. Finish with a moisturizer to hydrate the skin and reduce the risk of irritation.
Ask any dermatologist and they'll tell you: Incorporating a retinol into your skin-care routine without the use of moisturizer is probably a bad idea. That's because without that added layer of hydration, risk of sensitivity is higher.
STEP 4: WAIT UNTIL YOUR SKIN IS DRY
It's essential to make sure to wait until your skin is dehydrated before moving on to applying your retinol. If you use it on wet or even damp skin, there is a greater likelihood that you'll experience irritation. That is because cleansing the skin opens up the pores.
Skin experts always advocate applying actives on damp skin for better absorption. However the same rule does not apply to retinol. While you must ensure that you wash your face before application, make sure the skin is dry first. “On damp skin, the retinol will get absorbed more deeply and in turn cause irritation.
Remember, leave at least 20 minutes between retinol products to let it fully absorb into the skin and always protect your skin during the day with a broad-spectrum, high SPF sunscreen.
In fact, retinoids work best if you use them daily. Specifically, try to use them at night because light and air deactivate some types. If you experience any side effects — like skin redness or dryness — then it's a good idea to back down to once every 2 or 3 nights.
You should use hyaluronic acid after retinol. And to maximise the benefits, you should use retinol first and then wait at least 30 minutes before applying hyaluronic acid.
Retinol should be applied to dry skin at night-time: Retinols should always be applied to dry skin as part of your night-time routine. This should always be the first product you apply after cleansing and toning. Always double cleanse at night if you've worn SPF/makeup in the day: This is non-negotiable.
In fact, you can mix retinol with Hyaluronic Acid Serum and Ceramide Night Treatment, which is good for hydration, and SPF, which is even more important to use since Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Signs That Retinol Is Working
If you start seeing a reduction in wrinkles and fine lines, it's a good indication that retinol is working for you. Decreased Acne: Retinol can help unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts. If you notice a decrease in acne or fewer blemishes, it's a positive sign that retinol is effective.
After applying your retinol product, it's best to wait roughly 10 minutes before moving on to the next step in your routine.
You can use retinol with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Retinol tends to cause dryness and irritation, while hyaluronic acid and niacinamide hydrate the skin and maintain your skin's function as a protective barrier. Do not combine retinol with AHAs, BHAs, or Vitamin C.
Routine Order: The Slightly More Complicated Approach
Now let's talk about products whose order placement isn't as cut-and-dry. For prescription retinols, you'll typically apply this step onto dry skin before your moisturizer—but always check with your dermatologist.
Use retinol once or twice a week at first to see how your skin reacts, and gradually work up to every other day or three times a week. Another key tip for using retinol is to incorporate it into your nighttime skincare routine only, as it makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight.
Studies show that applying retinol cream reduces pore size and keeps them cleaner, emptying the impurities that otherwise give an oversized appearance. Retinol is most effective when used as night cream. While there are plenty of over-the-counter products available, a dermatologist-prescribed retinol is most effective.
Discontinue use if you have negative side effects after a few weeks of use and contact your physician to help reassess your skin type and find a solution that will protect your skin barrier . Consider using moisturizing and soothing topical skin care products with retinol to counteract its negative side effects.
It doesn't happen to everyone, but many people find their breakouts worsen before they get better when they start using a retinol product. Of course (as with any new skincare product) you'll want to conduct a patch test 24 hours before using retinol for the first time.