Retinol might not be a fit for those with overly sensitive or hypersensitive skin, those who have food intolerances or high allergic reactions, and young skin, she says. “Caution is necessary when using any vitamin A derivatives and should only be used after advice from your derm or skin care specialist,” Joss says.
Retinol is safe for all skin types, but "some may experience drying, redness, and irritation, which is common especially if it's your first time using retinol," says Dr. Lee.
Signs to Look For
“Signs of overuse of retinol, or using a retinol that's too strong, include skin ruddiness, flaking, irritation and thinning,” Joy explains.
Regulations. All-trans retinoic acid (Tretinoin) is banned for use in cosmetics in the EU.
"If appropriately used, retinol is safe to use long-term as a method to fight skin aging," says Dr. Chimento. "Retinol helps maintain skin elasticity." In fact, you'll need to use retinol continuously if you want to keep benefiting from the effects, adds Dr. Colbert.
Begin in Your Mid 20s or Early 30s
"Your mid-twenties are a great time to start using retinol," says Ellen Marmur, M.D. "Many patients who have used it for years swear by it."
It's perfectly safe and very effective to incorporate both retinol and vitamin C into your skincare routine, as long as you use them at different times of the day.
You see, retinol impacts your skin's normal function, and when you stop it your skin has to re-learn how to regulate itself properly again. So typically when people stop using it they experience either bad acne or bad dryness for a few weeks afterwards.
Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids.
Ask any dermatologist and they'll tell you: Incorporating a retinol into your skin-care routine without the use of moisturizer is probably a bad idea. That's because without that added layer of hydration, risk of sensitivity is higher.
Bakuchiol is a gentler alternative to retinol and doesn't have any known side effects, says Dr. Chacon. “It's always a good idea to patch test any new products you use, and talk to your dermatologist if you have concerns or plan to use bakuchiol while pregnant or breastfeeding.”
You should always apply retinol at night, after cleansing, and before your nighttime moisturizer. Five minutes is enough to wait for your retinol to sink in before applying moisturizer; you want to layer them, not mix them.
Ingredients that can serve as more gentle alternatives to retinol include bakuchiol, peptides, azelaic acid and more. Below, check out top-recommended products and then learn a bit more about how these alternative ingredients work.
The good news is that it is never too late to start incorporating retinol into your skin care routine. People in the 60s and beyond have begun using retinol and still experienced results.
Retinol is also one of the best ways to “reduce the appearance of fine lines, crow's feet, and wrinkles,” says Henry. It's a must in your 50s if you haven't already been using it. Engelman says prescription-strength retinols are “vital” at this stage.
If you've surpassed your 20s and are concerned that you've missed your window for reaping the benefits of retinol, don't worry—it's never too late to start. Dr. Arthur says she's had patients who reported noticeable results after starting retinol in their 60s and 70s.
First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
So if you start using retinol every day out of the gate, you can end up with some painful inflammation and a damaged skin barrier, negating any potential positives. One way to avoid that irritation is to start slow, explains Ranella Hirsch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.
In fact, harsh active ingredients Americans have long sought out to combat signs of aging, particularly retinol, are much less popular in Korea because Koreans prefer to avoid their drying and irritating side effects, Dr. Chang says.
Serum: In an interview with Vogue France, Victoria revealed that she uses the Elite Serum 24 Rapid Renewal serum from CosMedix ($124, The Beauty Club). This potent anti-ageing serum uses a unique blend of retinol and retinaldehyde to reduce wrinkles and imperfections while the addition of squalane boosts hydration.