What's the short answer? Contrary to some beliefs, retinol is perfectly safe to use on your skin.
Retinol is unsafe for use in the sun
Retinol has been shown to increase the sensitivity of the skin to sun, meaning that using retinol in the sun (especially without sunscreen) can make the skin more susceptible to sun damage and be at increased risk of skin cancer development.
Can Retinol Damage the Skin? You may have heard that extended retinol use can cause the skin to thin and the skin barrier to degrade as a result of increased cell turnover, but Shah says that's a myth. You don't need to worry about retinol causing permanent damage, Schlessinger says.
Who should skip retinol? “Retinols can be a beneficial addition for most skin types, but it isn't a one-size-fits-all approach,” Panzica says. Board certified dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, MD, notes that “people with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea cannot tolerate really strong topicals like retinols.”
If you stop retinol and do not begin a prescription retinoid, the benefit of preventing acne will go away. The skin cycle of cells being “born” at the base of the skin and moving to the top, dying and desquamating into the surrounding environment takes about 4-6 weeks.
So if you start using retinol every day out of the gate, you can end up with some painful inflammation and a damaged skin barrier, negating any potential positives. One way to avoid that irritation is to start slow, explains Ranella Hirsch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.
First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
It may take a week or more for your skin to return to normal after discontinuing the use of retinol. Keep in mind that retinol works on a cellular level, and it takes time for your skin cells to adjust to its introduction and its departure.
If used incorrectly, skin irritation can occur. Some people do not use Retinol in fear of thinning the skin. Let us put your mind at ease. When Retinol is used properly, as advised by a professional, skin irritation is avoided and optimal results are achieved.
Retinol is better tolerated and produces considerably less transepidermal water loss, erythema, and scaling than retinoic acid (tretinoin.) Cons: Retinol is significantly less potent than tretinoin and it requires further conversion to retinoic acid to demonstrate its action.
Retinoid acid, the bioactive metabolite of vitamin A, is a potent signaling molecule in the brains of growing and adult animals, regulates numerous gene products, and modulates neurogenesis, neuronal survival and synaptic plasticity.
What does retinol do for your skin? Retinol increases skin cell production (proliferation). It helps unclog pores. Retinol also exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance.
Retinoids (Accutane and Tegison) are used clinically for the treatment of a variety of skin diseases. Since retinoids are analogs of vitamin A, their potential to produce liver disease is reviewed. Animal and human studies of liver function tests suggest some abnormalities in the liver in about 25% of patients treated.
"It is best to avoid other drying agents when using retinoids such as toners, astringents, and medicated cleansers. These products cause further irritation," mentioned Dr. Lipner. Instead, consider piling on rich, creamy moisturizers to counteract any dryness that may occur.
He recommends starting with no more than every other day for the first 2 weeks. If, after the first 2 weeks, you don't see any side effects, he says you may want to move up to “2 nights on, and 1 night off.” After a month or so with no side effects, you can likely use it every day if you want.
Retinol significantly decreased both hormone levels, however retinoic acid decreased the progesterone level only.
Because retinoids help your skin make more collagen, they soften wrinkles and fine lines. They also stimulate new blood vessels, which can give your skin a rosy color. Retinoids also help fade age spots and smooth rough patches. Tretinoin (Retin-A) is a popular prescription choice for aging skin.
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
Dermatologists point to many clinical studies refuting the idea that retinol thins the skin — and that there's no danger in using retinoids themselves if you're adding them to your skincare routine safely. "Retinol will not decrease the skin barrier if used in the correct dosage,'' agrees Dr.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
As a rule the more irritated your skin is, the less frequently you should apply it. If your skin responds well, you can start applying retinol every night.
Make sure to leave some space in your fridge for your retinol and vitamin C skincare, as these antioxidants can degrade much quicker and become unstable when exposed to heat and sunlight. Storing these products in the fridge keeps the formulas stable and helps with preservation.